It's been a while since I've posted anything about Sidney's climbing. Sidney has climbed a TON and had many memorable moments since our last post. However, once I got behind it has been very hard to find the will to catch up. In order to do that, I plan on posting in batches with smaller write ups and unfortunately with less detail.
Just to start, a couple of years ago I posted a picture of Sidney's medal case that I was very proud of that I was able to put together. A few months back, we had a fundraiser to help raise money for Sidney's travel expenses and I took a picture of all of Sidney's U.S. Team jackets together. I thought it was pretty cool picture so enjoy!Sidney's U.S. Team jackets for the past 6 years. (Photo courtesy of me)
Lil' Sid
A BLOG DEDICATED TO SIDNEY'S GREATEST PASSION. CLIMBING. ------------------------------------- (You can watch all of her climbing videos on our YouTube channel, Chasesidney13.)
Thursday, April 24, 2014
Monday, January 13, 2014
2013 SCS NATIONALS.
This was Year 4 in Atlanta for the 2013 SCS Youth National event at Stone Summit. I’m not a fan of going to the same place for Nationals over and over and over and over but the bottom line is that it’s the best place to hold the National, so thank you Stone Summit for hosting it. Having just pulled off the Divisional Double (1st place in both Sport & Speed), Sidney worked really hard in preparation for the National event and capped off her training with a great week at the VW teams’ training camp. She was ready and firing on all cylinders by the time Nationals started.
Day 1 – As usual, the first day of competition was Qualifier
#1 for Sport and all the Qualifier runs for Speed. For Sidney and 2 of her best friends, Melina
Costanza and Cierra Graham, Qualifier #1 went smoothly as they all flashed the
route. Some of the other favorites in
the FYB category like Claire Buhrfeind, Margarita Marsanova, Isabelle Goodacre
and Grace McKeehan also flashed the route.
The only drama on the day was Margo Hayes mistakenly stepping on a bolt
hanger and being called off near the top of the route. It put her in danger of not advancing to
Semifinals but Qualifier #2 would end up being a very hard route which would
help her immensely. You can watch Sidney's 1st climb here, Sport Q1.
Going into this National for Speed, Sidney was a 3 time
defending champion. The difference this
time around was that she would not be climbing on jugs but on the Speed
holds. As per her strategy, Sidney just
tried to be smooth on her first run and posted a time of 8.36 seconds, which
ended up being the 2nd fastest 1st run and can be seen here, Speed Q1. On her second pass, she put it all together
and blazed to a time of 7.12 seconds. Watch here, Speed Q2.
This would put her firmly in 1st place after Qualifiers with
the next 5 fastest times being Claire (7.74 seconds), Margarita (8.07 seconds),
Jenna Wang (8.33 seconds), Bethany Eversole (8.47 seconds) and Grace (8.51
seconds). For those paying attention,
can you see a connection there? Yep, 4
of the top 6 fastest times were put up by Team Texas climbers. To say they are really well coached in Speed
would be an understatement. The other
two climbers in the top 6 (Sidney and Jenna) also have easy access to very good
Speed walls to train on. Melina pulled a
best time of 11.36 seconds just barely ahead of Cierra’s time of 11.57 seconds. Unfortunately for Cierra, she would finish in
17th place, 1 spot out of continuing onto Semifinals but on the flip
side, it was good for Melina as she moved on in the 16th spot.
Day 2 – Qualifier #2 for Sport was a reaaaaaallllly long
route with over half of it on a roof section which made Sidney very happy. After the roof section, the route went
vertical and zigzagged up to the highest point of the wall. Really tough.
Quite a few really good climbers had problems with the
route. Isabelle, Hanna Grossman and
Bimini Horstman all fell at the same spot and all tied for 17th
place, which was the last spot to get in for Semifinals. In front of them were 8 girls that all fell
in the same spot a few moves before the route went vertical. They all tied for 9th place going
into Semifinals and among them were Melina, Cierra, Lily Canavan and Audrey
Miller. By my recollection, only 5
climbers fully made it onto the vertical face.
Those 5 climbers were Sidney, Margo, Claire, Grace and Margarita. Margarita fell a couple of moves after the
roof section and qualified in 5th.
Claire and Grace fell at the same spot about halfway up the vertical
face and qualified tied for 2nd. Margo
actually finished the route but timed out a couple of moves from the finish and
she did not get credit for the flash.
Still she qualified for Semifinals in 4th which was great as
she had that mistake on Qualifier #1.
Sidney cruised through the roof section and then, on the vert section, she
somehow held onto a sloper when her foot slipped. She fell after getting Usable Surface on the
finish hold at the top. It was a tremendous effort and she would go into Semifinals in 1st place. See her awesome climb here, Sport Q2.
Sidney gave us a scare during Speed Semifinals when she fell
after the first couple of moves on her 1st run. She went into “Be careful and get a time”
mode on her 2nd run and clocked in with a time of 8.22 seconds which
was good for 5th place going into Finals. The top 8 girls for Finals in descending
order of time were Erica Meister (8.76 seconds), Audrey (8.72 seconds), Bethany
(8.43 seconds), Sidney, Jenna (7.91
seconds), Claire (7.32 seconds), Margarita (7.17 seconds) and Grace (6.90
seconds). This would pair up Sidney and
Bethany for Finals in the 2nd pairing (out of 4) in the order. I thought it was a good thing because if you
put a good time out there early, it puts pressure on the climbers after her and
they might not perform as well. Melina
pulled her best time of the comp at 10.90 seconds to improve by 2 spots and
finish in 14th place.
Day 3 – The Sport Semifinal was a straight forward route
near the middle of the main wall that got your pump on and ended with a tricky
hand sequence at the top. Sidney looked
great on her climb and fell going to the finish. You can watch this climb here, Sport Semifinal. It was good enough for her to be in 2nd
place going into Finals right behind Claire who finished the route. The top 11 going into Finals after Claire and
Sidney, in order, were Grace, Margo, Margarita, Isabelle, Bimini, Robyn Ragins,
Cierra, Melina, and Leilani Peralta.
The 8 Finalists in Speed, in reverse order and their
pairing, were Erica & Audrey,
Bethany & Sidney, Jenna & Claire and Margarita & Grace. On her first run, Sidney was smooth and
powerful in putting up a very fast time of 7.24 seconds. On her 2nd run, she pretty much
mirrored her 1st run with a time of 7.32 seconds. In the end, her 1st run time would
put her in 2nd place and on the podium. Claire had a best time of 7.06 seconds to
take 1st place and Grace had a best time of 7.36 seconds to come in
3rd to round out the podium.
Margarita came in 4th with a time of 7.60 seconds to nab the
last coveted U.S. Team spot for Youth Worlds.
Just missing out in 5th place was Jenna with a time of 8.08
seconds but kudos to her as she was consistently fast throughout the Speed
portion of the comp. Watch Sidney's 2nd place winning run here, Speed Final #1.
A cool shot of Sidney after tripping the timer on her Final Speed run #2. (Photo courtesy of Unknown) |
Day 4 – The Sport Final was a very cool route but it was all
heartbreak for Sidney. After climbing so
well throughout the comp, Sidney made a mistake about halfway up the route and
fell. It was a hold where you needed to
get both hands into a hole in the hold and then oppose the force in order to
move to the next hold. Unfortunately,
Sidney misread it and fell to finish in 10th place. The gym fell silent as a lot of people were
sort of in shock for a moment. I know I
was. Having made the podium 14 times in
her previous 17 National events, with the other 3 being 4th & 5th
place finishes, this was new to her. This
was the first time she had made a mistake like that at such a crucial moment that
it was hard to process BUT this was where I was the most proud of her. I met her outside where she was crying with
Diana. We talked and hugged. Then she said she wanted to go back inside to
cheer Claire on and be with her friends.
Though Sidney was tremendously disappointed, she went back inside and
did just that which showed a lot of character.
Later, a few parents complimented me on how well she handled her
disappointment which made me very proud. On the bright side, her best friend Melina crushed it to finish in 4th
place and join Sidney on the U.S. Team bound for Youth Worlds in Victoria, B.C.
Adriana Jacobsen, Bimini, Melina, Makenna Graham, Sidney, Cierra and Lily a short time after the Sport climbing for the FYB category had completed. (Photo courtesy of Kari Horstmann, I think) |
Wednesday, October 16, 2013
2013 SCS DIVISIONALS.
For the 1st time, Divisionals were held at one of Sidney’s home gyms, Seattle Vertical World, on June 15th and 16th. It is a really great facility with 55 foot lead walls that end in a wicked roof section. Sidney has spent her fair share of time on these walls and was looking forward to climbing some cool routes. The routesetters would not disappoint.
Sport Qualifiers and Speed Qualifiers were on Saturday. In Sidney’s FYB category, there were 25 young women competing in Sport and 24 in Speed. Each competitor would climb 2 qualifier routes with a cycle rest in between each route. After all the Sport climbers were finished, all the Speed qualifiers would be run in one session to end the day.
Qualifier 1 was on the left side of the climbing area where the walls are about 45 feet high and do not have any overhang. The route was very technical and required balance. Those who were patient and precise were rewarded with a well deserved send. In all, there were 8 tops of this route with 2 of those climbers making a clipping mistake that cost them .01 on their score but they still sent the route. The 8 sends were evenly divided between two regions. They were Hanna Grossman, Kara Herson, Madison Cline and Jenna Wang from Northern California and Melina Costanza, Cierra Graham, Makenna Graham and Sidney from Washington/Alaska. Of course, Sidney had to make things interesting at the top of the route by skipping a big sloper and just throwing for a crimp while fully extended. It’s so interesting to watch her make the calculations of skipping a hold and going dynamic. Once she makes the decision, though, she never hesitates and always executes the move with conviction. I never like it when she does this but she seems to always make it so what can you do? I just tell her great job and ask her to try to do the proper beta the next time. Maybe someday.Sidney on Qualifier #1. Notice the big sloper that she skips? (Photo courtesy of me)
Qualifier 2 was on the front of the main wall and went the full length up into the roof section. The climb was a long, sustained grind that pushed the limit on timing out on the route. No one would top this route and only half of the category would make it past the halfway point on the climb. With a route score of 62 holds, only 7 climbers were able to get a score of 40 holds or more. They were Makenna at 40.57, Kara and Siobhan Duffy at 43.57, Cierra at 45.08, Hanna at 47.58, Sidney at 58.40 and Melina at 58.61. It was very close between the top 2 as Melina scored 1 clip more and Usable Surface compared to Sidney only getting Movement. After Qualifiers, the top 11 going into Sport Finals on Sunday in reverse order of finish were Sydney Palmer, Siobhan, Amelia Hunt, Jenna, Madison, Makenna, Kara, Cierra, Hanna, Sidney and Melina.Sidney on Qualifier #2 right before she falls while trying to clip. (Photo courtesy of me)
Speed Qualifiers were the last session of the day and was pretty action packed. Seattle VW has two fairly close approximations of the official Speed route so all the B, A and Junior categories were racing on those routes with the 2 younger categories racing on some jug routes on another wall. Sidney had 2 blazing times 8.27 seconds and 7.94 seconds for her qualifying runs. The next closest qualifying time of any female competitor was the 9.52 seconds put up by Jacquelyn Wu of the FYA category. In Sidney’s category, Melina really kicked it up a notch and was the next fastest qualifier with a time of 9.94 seconds. The rest of the category had times of 11.75 seconds or greater. Sidney would be a heavy favorite going into Speed Finals the next day.
Sunday would be short and sweet with 1 Finals route for each Sport finalist, followed by a Speed session for those finalists. With Sidney as a defending National Champion in both Sport and Speed, there would probably be 8 invites to Nationals in the FYB category for both disciplines instead of the usual 7 invitations.
The Sport Final route for the FYB/FYA category was pretty wicked. It started on the main face of the wall and moved on a steady line up and to the left. It then cut back to the right until you were in the roof section and then zagged left through an extended roof section to the finish. Between the 2 categories there were 21 combined finalists that attempted the route and only 1 climber topped it. The route scored to 55 holds with none of the first 7 FYB finalists making it past hold 32. Cierra, in 4th going into Finals, had a great climb and moved up 2 spots to finish in 2nd place with a score of 51.10. Hanna was next out and gave it a good go, scoring 45.59 and placing in 4th. Sidney was the next climber and she crushed the route with the only top of the FYB/FYA categories. Melina was last out and climbed tremendously but fell 1 hold short of tying Cierra and would settle for 3rd place. Sidney looked so strong in her flash but unfortunately my camera malfunctioned right as she started her climb so I have no pictures or video to prove it. That really bummed me out as it was a very cool send by her. The top 8 would get invites to Nationals and they were; 8th-Sydney, 7th-Madison, 6th-Jenna, 5th-Kara, 4th-Hanna, 3rd-Melina, 2nd-Cierra and 1st-Sidney.
Speed Finals went pretty much the same way as Qualifiers with no major surprises. Sidney pulled runs of 10.13 seconds and 8.82 seconds to finish in 1st place. Melina slightly improved her best time to 9.72 seconds to come in a solid 2nd place. No one else in the category had a time faster than 14 seconds as the Speed jitters may have gotten to a few of the participants. The rest of the Speed invites for Nationals went as follows; 3rd-Hanna, 4th-Jenna, 5th-Cierra, 6th-Sydney, 7th-Amelia and 8th-Kara.
Yet another SCS Divisionals was in the books and Sidney was very happy to have climbed well to win both disciplines. She enjoyed the moment but the Youth National event at Stone Summit loomed only a few weeks away and a lot was at stake for her, namely 2 berths into the Youth World event.A great shot of Sam Wolff, Sidney and Alex Fritz after the comp. This was Sam's last youth climbing event ever. Sad. (Photo courtesy of Alex Fritz)
Sport Qualifiers and Speed Qualifiers were on Saturday. In Sidney’s FYB category, there were 25 young women competing in Sport and 24 in Speed. Each competitor would climb 2 qualifier routes with a cycle rest in between each route. After all the Sport climbers were finished, all the Speed qualifiers would be run in one session to end the day.
Qualifier 1 was on the left side of the climbing area where the walls are about 45 feet high and do not have any overhang. The route was very technical and required balance. Those who were patient and precise were rewarded with a well deserved send. In all, there were 8 tops of this route with 2 of those climbers making a clipping mistake that cost them .01 on their score but they still sent the route. The 8 sends were evenly divided between two regions. They were Hanna Grossman, Kara Herson, Madison Cline and Jenna Wang from Northern California and Melina Costanza, Cierra Graham, Makenna Graham and Sidney from Washington/Alaska. Of course, Sidney had to make things interesting at the top of the route by skipping a big sloper and just throwing for a crimp while fully extended. It’s so interesting to watch her make the calculations of skipping a hold and going dynamic. Once she makes the decision, though, she never hesitates and always executes the move with conviction. I never like it when she does this but she seems to always make it so what can you do? I just tell her great job and ask her to try to do the proper beta the next time. Maybe someday.Sidney on Qualifier #1. Notice the big sloper that she skips? (Photo courtesy of me)
Qualifier 2 was on the front of the main wall and went the full length up into the roof section. The climb was a long, sustained grind that pushed the limit on timing out on the route. No one would top this route and only half of the category would make it past the halfway point on the climb. With a route score of 62 holds, only 7 climbers were able to get a score of 40 holds or more. They were Makenna at 40.57, Kara and Siobhan Duffy at 43.57, Cierra at 45.08, Hanna at 47.58, Sidney at 58.40 and Melina at 58.61. It was very close between the top 2 as Melina scored 1 clip more and Usable Surface compared to Sidney only getting Movement. After Qualifiers, the top 11 going into Sport Finals on Sunday in reverse order of finish were Sydney Palmer, Siobhan, Amelia Hunt, Jenna, Madison, Makenna, Kara, Cierra, Hanna, Sidney and Melina.Sidney on Qualifier #2 right before she falls while trying to clip. (Photo courtesy of me)
Speed Qualifiers were the last session of the day and was pretty action packed. Seattle VW has two fairly close approximations of the official Speed route so all the B, A and Junior categories were racing on those routes with the 2 younger categories racing on some jug routes on another wall. Sidney had 2 blazing times 8.27 seconds and 7.94 seconds for her qualifying runs. The next closest qualifying time of any female competitor was the 9.52 seconds put up by Jacquelyn Wu of the FYA category. In Sidney’s category, Melina really kicked it up a notch and was the next fastest qualifier with a time of 9.94 seconds. The rest of the category had times of 11.75 seconds or greater. Sidney would be a heavy favorite going into Speed Finals the next day.
Sunday would be short and sweet with 1 Finals route for each Sport finalist, followed by a Speed session for those finalists. With Sidney as a defending National Champion in both Sport and Speed, there would probably be 8 invites to Nationals in the FYB category for both disciplines instead of the usual 7 invitations.
The Sport Final route for the FYB/FYA category was pretty wicked. It started on the main face of the wall and moved on a steady line up and to the left. It then cut back to the right until you were in the roof section and then zagged left through an extended roof section to the finish. Between the 2 categories there were 21 combined finalists that attempted the route and only 1 climber topped it. The route scored to 55 holds with none of the first 7 FYB finalists making it past hold 32. Cierra, in 4th going into Finals, had a great climb and moved up 2 spots to finish in 2nd place with a score of 51.10. Hanna was next out and gave it a good go, scoring 45.59 and placing in 4th. Sidney was the next climber and she crushed the route with the only top of the FYB/FYA categories. Melina was last out and climbed tremendously but fell 1 hold short of tying Cierra and would settle for 3rd place. Sidney looked so strong in her flash but unfortunately my camera malfunctioned right as she started her climb so I have no pictures or video to prove it. That really bummed me out as it was a very cool send by her. The top 8 would get invites to Nationals and they were; 8th-Sydney, 7th-Madison, 6th-Jenna, 5th-Kara, 4th-Hanna, 3rd-Melina, 2nd-Cierra and 1st-Sidney.
Speed Finals went pretty much the same way as Qualifiers with no major surprises. Sidney pulled runs of 10.13 seconds and 8.82 seconds to finish in 1st place. Melina slightly improved her best time to 9.72 seconds to come in a solid 2nd place. No one else in the category had a time faster than 14 seconds as the Speed jitters may have gotten to a few of the participants. The rest of the Speed invites for Nationals went as follows; 3rd-Hanna, 4th-Jenna, 5th-Cierra, 6th-Sydney, 7th-Amelia and 8th-Kara.
Yet another SCS Divisionals was in the books and Sidney was very happy to have climbed well to win both disciplines. She enjoyed the moment but the Youth National event at Stone Summit loomed only a few weeks away and a lot was at stake for her, namely 2 berths into the Youth World event.A great shot of Sam Wolff, Sidney and Alex Fritz after the comp. This was Sam's last youth climbing event ever. Sad. (Photo courtesy of Alex Fritz)
Saturday, August 31, 2013
2013 CEC NATIONALS.
Sidney and I love going to Canada. We’ve never had a bad trip there and we
always have a great time. Of course,
it’s always associated with her climbing so maybe that’s why we enjoy it so
much. Our latest trip to the Great White
North was this past May 18th through the 20th when Sidney
competed in the 2013 CEC Youth Nationals at The Boulders gym in Saanich,
B.C. This gym is where Youth Worlds was
going to be held in August so we were looking forward to seeing the venue and
having Sidney climb on some great routes.
The Boulders gym is quite unique in that it’s out in the
countryside at a secondary school (high school). As you come into view of the school, a huge
enclosed structure towers above it. You
can’t miss it. The front of the gym has
a huge door that is in 4 sections and each section can be lifted individually
so that you can have varying degrees of cover.
The front of the gym also faces an outdoor basketball court with a huge
grass field on the other side of it so there is plenty of room for spectator
viewing.
The main wall of The Boulders Gym towering over the countryside. (Photo courtesy of Alex Fritz) |
Staying with us (Sidney, Di and I) on the trip was the one and only Alex Fritz. He came along to compete in the Male Open category. John Goto, a MYA climber from the Vertical World team, also was climbing in the Male Open category. So, along with Sidney in the FYB category, we had 3 climbers representing VW. In Sidney’s categories, there were 20 competitors in Lead and 7 in Speed. In Alex and John’s categories, there were 6 in Lead and they were the lone 2 competitors in Speed. This meant there was a good shot that one of them would win the Speed category for Male Open. Hee, hee. In general, the participation of Sport climbers at youth comps in Canada is a fraction compared to the U.S. and even less when it comes to Speed. However, their numbers are growing and getting stronger each year so that is a positive sign.
Saturday, for all categories, was Qualifier #1 in the
morning and Qualifier #2 in the afternoon.
The day was overcast and a bit chilly, especially in the morning. Since it was Flash format for both
Qualifiers, it was important to stay warm as you were basically standing out in
the cold while watching the other climbers in your group. While quite a few climbers were well prepared
and brought hand warmers or gloves, alas, we were not. Luckily, Sidney was able to keep her hands
warm but after her 1st climb she told me she wished she had
some gloves. We’ll remember the next time,
hopefully.
Qualifier #1 was a pretty straightforward route up the far
right side of the gym with very little overhang. This would end up being a theme for the rest
of the comp as all of the FYB routes were on one side of the gym or the other
with not much overhang or variance. It
would have been cool to get some roof action in but I guess the routesetters
wanted the older categories on those sections.
Sidney flashed the route but not without a little bit of
confusion. There were no taped boxes for
the start or finish holds, just a taped box around the last clip. So when Sidney got near the top, she was
momentarily confused when she pulled her rope out to clip but they were tied up
anchors. Thankfully, she did not try to
clip them but there are a couple of seconds where she lets go of the rope and looks
around trying to figure out what’s going on before she continues up to the
final clip. Along with Sidney, the other
2 climbers to flash the route were Beth Vince from Ontario and Mika Hosoi from
British Columbia. Watch Sidney's first climb here, Sport Qualifier #1.
Qualifier #2 was pretty much the same as Qualifier #1 except
that the route was on the far left side of the gym. Sidney flashed the route although the 2nd
to last move before the finish gave her a bit of trouble until she high stepped
up to the next move. Beth and Mika were
again the only climbers to top Qualifier #2 along with Sidney so the Semifinal
was shaping up to be quite a 3 way battle. Her climb can be seen here, Sport Qualifier #2.
Sunday was Semifinals in the morning session and all the
Speed rounds in the afternoon. The
Semifinal route was on the left side of the gym but started out near the
center. The route didn’t meander much
and basically went straight up to the finish.
Sidney, climbing with a nice rhythm and precision, flashed the route
with relative ease. Mika had the 3rd
highest score of the route at 36+ but came up short of topping. Beth looked strong and was the only other
competitor to flash the route so going into Finals, Sidney and Beth were still
tied. Finals was going to be exciting to
watch! Here is the Semifinal route.
The Speed portion of the comp started with 2 warmups for
each climber. I was very curious what
Sidney’s times would be as this would be her first time climbing a 15 meter
wall in competition. We have a 13 &
½ meter wall in Seattle but it was not up prior to this comp so she was winging
it on the last 5 meters. I don’t have
video of her practice runs but she blazed up her second run in 14.5
seconds. Ironically, this would be her
fastest run of the day as racing tactics took over in the actual competition.
Sidney’s run on Speed Qualifier #1 was right on pace for
another 14.5 second time when she leapt for the timer and was just short! There was a very loud “Aaaaawwwww” from the
crowd as they were anticipating a fast time.
This would put a lot of pressure on Sidney as she now had to have a clean
run or be disqualified. For her Speed
Qualifier #2 run, Sidney took a more cautious approach but still had a foot pop
early in the run. She recovered and was
smooth until the finish where she took an extra long time to gather and leap
for the timer. Her time of 16.647
seconds was good enough for 1st place going into Semifinals. Watch both Qualifier speed runs here, Speed Qualifier #1 & Speed Qualifer #2.
For Semifinals and Finals, the format is head to head with
the top 4 climbers seeded by their time.
In Semifinals, the #1 seed raced the #4 seed and the #2 & #3 seeds
raced each other. There was only one
race for each pair and the winners would meet for Gold and Silver, with the
losers racing each other for the bronze.
If one racer fell, then the other racer only needed to finish the route
to win. In her Semifinal heat, Sidney
was the #1 seed and would be racing the #4 seed, Maggy Dube-Laroche from
Quebec. Sidney had a smooth, clean run
and had a time of 15.739 seconds with Maggy giving a great effort and a time of
33.443 seconds. The Final would be an
All-American duel as Sidney would be racing Erica Meister from Michigan. Erica’s times were slowly getting faster with
each run as she posted her best time during Semifinals at 17.126 seconds. In the final, Sidney took an early lead as Erica
almost fell on the 2nd move and was playing catch up the rest of the
run. Sidney popped a foot at the 10
meter mark but did not fall and was able to finish with a time of 15.967 seconds. Erica had a very nice run after her slow
start and clocked in with a time of 18.617 seconds. The podium for the FYB Speed category would
end up being Elena Moss from British Columbia in 3rd place, Erica in
2nd place and Sidney in 1st place. Watch both races here, Speed Semifinal & Speed Final.
Erica, Sidney and Elena on the Speed Podium for FYB. (Photo courtesy of Sharon Moss) |
Monday was the Final route for all the categories which would be followed by the awards and Canada Cup presentations. Since Sidney and Beth were tied going into Finals, if they were to tie again on the Final route, the tiebreaker would go to whomever climbed to the high point the fastest. It’s not the greatest way to break a tie in my opinion but at least it is fair. I’m sure everyone was hoping it would not come down to time and that the outcome would be settled on the wall.
The Final route was again on the left side of the wall and
it was pretty much straight up with very little deviation. There were 8 competitors in Finals with
Sidney climbing 7th, right before Beth. Eva Thompson of Alberta was the 3rd
climber out and climbed strong, falling after controlling hold 27. That score would be the high point until Mika
came out right before Sidney and passed Eva’s high point with a score of
28+. Sidney was next and never looked in
any trouble while flashing the route in 4 minutes and 30 seconds. Beth was the last climber out for the
category. She climbed very well but it
was definitely at a slower pace than Sidney’s attempt. The time became moot when she fell after
controlling hold 29, just outpacing Mika. Watch Sidney's winning climb here, Sport Final.
Sidney in the town that bears her name! (Photo courtesy of me. Laser cat eyes courtesy of Sidney Trinidad) |
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
2013 CEC WESTERN CANADIAN REGIONALS.
With a bye to SCS Nationals in both Sport and Speed, this
has been a very quiet SCS season for Sidney so far. No Locals, no Regional. A few months back, I heard that the Canadian
Youth Rope National was going to be held at The Boulders climbing gym in
Victoria, B.C which, as the crow flies, is only 90 miles from Seattle. For those that don’t know, the Youth World
event will be at the The Boulders climbing gym in mid-August. Since Sidney has a very good shot at making
the Youth World event, I thought this would be a great opportunity to get her
on some competition Sport routes and climb the 15m Speed wall at the same
gym.
We arrived in Calgary in the evening on the Friday before the comp. The B & B we were staying at was a short walk to the event which was hosted by the Calgary Climbing Centre and was on a major bus line so we didn’t need to rent a car which was nice. We had a light dinner, hit the local Safeway for some supplies and then hung out in our room for a while before hitting the sack.
Qualifier #2 was a harder climb with the bulk of the
climbers from all 3 groups (16 out of 36) falling at the crux which was 2/3 of
the way up the route. The sequence had
your left hand pinching the top of a sloper and the right hand spanned up to
the right on a narrow hold with an edge.
You then had to bump the right hand out 12 inches to another hold that
had an edge but was hard to pinch. Most
of the climbers had to use every inch of their reach so this meant you could
not lose the left hand when you bumped or you barndoored and fell off the
route. Mika got by the crux but did not
get her feet high enough at a big move at the top and fell 1 hold from flashing
the route. Sidney was the only climber
from her category to top the route with Caitlin Wu from the Female A category
and Christy Spurrell from the Female Open category being the only other
climbers to top, also. Qualifier #2 can
be seen here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jU4D6AnOIDs
Since Sidney is a U.S. citizen and this is a Canadian event,
I contacted a very cool guy, Bill Hendsbee, who is an official with the CEC
(Climbing Escalade Canada). He said she
was welcome to compete at their National but she would have to participate in
their Western Canadian Regional first which was in Calgary, Alberta on April 20th
and 21st. Sidney and I were
both excited and agreed that this was a great opportunity so I booked the two
of us airfare to Calgary so she could compete.
Sidney with downtown Calgary in the background. It was cold! (Photo courtesy of me) |
We arrived in Calgary in the evening on the Friday before the comp. The B & B we were staying at was a short walk to the event which was hosted by the Calgary Climbing Centre and was on a major bus line so we didn’t need to rent a car which was nice. We had a light dinner, hit the local Safeway for some supplies and then hung out in our room for a while before hitting the sack.
Saturday was Qualifiers but the format was a bit different
than what Sidney was used to. Since the
gym was fairly small and lacked wall space, they ran all the competitors
through Qualifier #1, took a break and then ran them all through Qualifier
#2. For Saturday, all of the Female B, A
and Open competitors climbed the same 2 routes.
Sunday would be similar as they ran all the competitors who qualified
for Semifinals through 1 route, scored them and then ran those that qualified
for Finals on 1 route. For Sunday, they
added the Female Juniors to the previous 3 from Saturday as all 4 categories
climbed the same Semifinal and Final route.
What I liked about this format is that you can directly compare your
score not only against your own category but against the other categories that
climbed the same route. This did put the
younger climbers in each grouping at a disadvantage and the scores reflected
that but for Sidney it was perfect.
Qualifier #1 was pretty straightforward and Sidney flashed
it easily. Out of the 17 young women in
her Youth B category, 5 of them topped the route. The other 4 were Eva Thompson from Calgary,
Remi Irwin from Edmonton, Mika Hosoi from Vancouver and Julia Massullo, also
from Vancouver. For the Youth A female
climbers, 12 out of 17 topped the route and both Female Open competitors topped
the route. Since no one knew who she
was, it was a bit odd to watch her climb with no one cheering her on by
name. In fact, when you watch the video,
note that no one is cheering for her at all and there is only a very light
applause from a couple of people when she tops the route. As each video will show, her cheering section
gets bigger after each successful climb and more people are urging her on by
her name. You can watch Qualifier #1
here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Mo6u-RWHpg
The Calgary Tower. (Photo courtesy of me) |
We had a few hours to kill after Qualifier #1 so we walked into
downtown to see some sights. A couple of
my favorites were this huge, metal latticed head that was in front of a big
building with security guards at the entrance.
Every time Sidney would climb up 3 feet for me to take a picture, they
would start walking toward her which of course freaked her out. The other was going up to the top of the
Calgary Tower. It is the same height as
our Space Needle here in Seattle and while a fun experience, it’s not as cool
as the Needle. Since we were running out of time and it was snowing out, we took a taxi back to the comp much to Sidney's relief.
Sidney just moments before the security guard came to arrest her. Run!!! (Photo courtesy of me) |
After Qualifiers, we had a delicious meal with Bill and all
the climbers/parents from the Rock Jungle climbing team from Edmonton, along
with their coach, Dan Achambault. It was
great to hang out with some new, cool climbing families. I learned a lot about Canadian culture and some
of the interesting differences in youth climbing between our countries. Thank you Rock Jungle!
Sunday had the Semifinal route in the morning and the Final
route early in the afternoon. For
Semifinals, the Female B category had 11 climbers, the Female A category had 11
climbers, the Female Junior category had 6 climbers and the Female Open
category had 2 climbers. They would all
be climbing the same Semifinal route. It
started in a small roof section and gradually rounded up to a narrow section
that was slightly overhung. The wall
stayed at this angle until the last 6 or 7 feet where it went straight up to
the finish. Of course halfway up, Sidney
decided she didn’t want to use the proper beta and instead just toed the wall
into a full extension and skipped a hold.
I trust her instincts because she knows her abilities but I still don’t
like it when she does it. Sidney was the
only climber in her category to top the route.
Among the other categories there were a few more tops compared to
Qualifiers as Becca Frangos from Canmore and Amy Sutley (fellow Evolv National
Team member) from Calgary in the Female A group, Allison Vest from Canmore and
Alyssa Weber from Calgary in the Female Junior group and Hung-Ying Lee from
Vancouver in the Female Open group all flashed the route. View the Semifinal route here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZMnvn9gIX8
The Finals count for each category ended up with 7
competitors in Female B, 7 in Female A, 5 in Female Junior and 2 in Female
Open. The Finals route was really hard
in that it had a very specific beta sequence that was needed to get through the
middle section of the route. The
sequence was in a corner and you had to stem a few moves up in order to move
over into the upper half of the route.
What was catching the eye of a lot of competitors was a yellow hold out
to the left that looked like it could be a handhold but was in fact a
foothold. Basically if you missed the
beta you were not going any farther than hold 13. Of the 21 climbers who attempted this route,
13 did not get any higher than hold 13 with 9 of those climbers falling at hold
13 while trying to control the yellow foothold.
When you watch the video, notice that Sidney is stumped for a while as
well as she comes ever so close to going for the yellow foothold, too. She figures out eventually that it is way too
hard a move, looks for a different way and figures out the correct beta. Later, Sidney told me she did not hear any
other climbers talking about stemming during the route preview as they were all
focused on the yellow foothold so that’s what she did, too. In the end, a couple of climbers came within
2 or 3 holds from the top but Sidney was the only climber to flash the route to
the applause of the crowd. Watch the
Final route and see if you think you would have seen the correct beta, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyexMoW9YQY
Sidney came in first place in her category and she was the
only climber of the entire competition to top all 4 routes. Rounding out the top 5 from Sidney’s category
were the other 4 competitors who topped Qualifier #1. They were Eva in 2nd place, Remi
in 3rd place, Mika in 4th place and Julia in 5th
place. Unfortunately, the comp ran a
little late and we were not able to stay for the awards presentation as we had
a flight to catch but Bill gave Sidney her medal as we were leaving so that was
nice. All in all, Sidney and I had an
awesome experience in Calgary, made some new friends and were thankful we
decided to attend the Western Canadian Regional. After all that, we were really looking
forward to the Canadian National event in Victoria, B.C.
The view through the glass floor at the top of the Calgary Tower. (Photo courtesy of me) |
Friday, May 17, 2013
2013 ABS 14 NATIONALS.
Sidney, Makenna, Lia, Zak and the Kiwi at the Garden of the Gods before ABS 14 Nationals. (Photo courtesy of me) |
A long 7 weeks after Divisionals, we traveled to Colorado Springs for the ABS 14 National which was on March 1st through the 3rd. Everything had a familiar feeling to it as the event took place in the same venue and had the same wall as last year. A couple of things were vastly different than last year, though.
The first is that Sidney and her PNW besties Melina Costanza, Cierra Graham, Lia Messinger and Olivia Durant were moving up to the big time into the FYB category. Historically, as a first year B, it’s very hard to make Finals let alone make the podium. This group would try to break that trend but they were competing against some stiff competition in Margo Hayes, Claire Buhrfeind and a group of tough 2nd year B girls.
The second is that the routesetters made every route challenging, starting with Qualifier #1 all the way through to Final #3. In the past, Qualifier #1 and Qualifier #2 tended to be easy with most of the category flashing or topping the route. As this was a National, it was refreshing to see all the climbers pushed to climb their best on every route.
On that Friday, Qualifiers started with 36 competitors in
the FYB category and 4 tough problems.
Qualifier #1 started on a long, narrow volume and then moved onto a slab
wall into another volume that was wide and flat with pyramid type holds on it. The key beta was to grab the first hold on
the 2nd volume and then get your left foot up on top of the first
volume and lever up higher onto the slab section. The other tricky section was getting into the
corner to be able to go up to the 2nd to last hold and on to the
finish. Both Lia and Olivia had trouble
reading the lower beta and could not get past hold 7. Cierra also had a hiccup on her 1st
try but was able to top the route on her 2nd try. Margo, Sidney and Melina all flashed but surprisingly,
Claire had trouble getting into the corner and was 4 holds short of
finishing. To illustrate how tough the 1st
problem was, only 17 of the 36 competitors topped the route and less than half
of those (8) flashed it. That is a far
cry from last year when 33 of 35 climbers in Sidney’s category topped Qualifier
#1 in FYC. Watch, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPAcp49s4Vs&list=UUvFEo19_3FQnGo0AZ8w0Oqw&index=14
Qualifier #2 was a long, power route that had the most tops
but you either sent it on your first try or you didn’t send it at all. It started on a large volume, worked into an
extended roof section and then finished on a short vertical face with some wide
holds that were not jugs. There were 20
climbers who topped the route in all and they were all flashes. Olivia came close to the top by getting to
hold 18 while Sidney, Melina, Cierra and Lia all flashed. Watch Q2 here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2y5rkmNt1y0&list=UUvFEo19_3FQnGo0AZ8w0Oqw&index=13
Qualifier #3 would prove to be the hardest of the 4
Qualifying routes. It was a short route with
most of it on a 45 degree wall that only scored to 14 holds but it needed very
specific beta to top it. The key
sequence was being able to move off a long, narrow hold that was vertical and out
to the left onto a bulbous hold. From
there you needed to keep tension with your feet on the narrow hold by various
means and move up with your hands to the next hold that was a big, round
sloper, then continue to move up to the finish hold that was another sloper. All of that needed to be done while staying
horizontal on the route and never losing your feet on the long, narrow hold. Sidney, Margo and Claire were the only
climbers to top the route and they all flashed.
Melina was able to get one hand on the big, round sloper but fell trying
to match, scoring to hold 11. Both Lia
and Cierra got to the bulbous hold to score 10 and 9 respectively. Watch this cool climb here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uUtuCiRGzQ&list=UUvFEo19_3FQnGo0AZ8w0Oqw&index=12
Qualifier #4 was another tricky slab route that started on
the right and traversed 2 foot holds to the left with no hand holds. You then moved straight up over a volume and
then moved to the right on various round slopers to the finish. There were 11 tops of this route with 8 of
them being flashes. Sidney, Melina,
Cierra and Lia were 4 of the 8 flashes while Olivia gave it a valiant effort
and scored to hold 10. The semifinal
cut-off ended up being 17th place and you needed 2 tops to get
in. Sidney and Margo tied for 1st going
into Semifinals with 4 flashes. Melina
was in 3rd and Cierra was in 8th as they both had 3 tops
and Lia was in 14th with 2 tops.
Olivia climbed really well and ended up with a respectable 25th
place finish. View the final Qualifier here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEO5jMI9g0Q&list=UUvFEo19_3FQnGo0AZ8w0Oqw&index=11
Semifinals were on Saturday and tops were going to be the
key to moving on to Finals but they were also going to be hard to get. Semifinal #1 was on the same wall as
Qualifier #4 and even followed the same pattern of left, up and right only this
one was a lot harder. The start move
again had no hands but this time you were required to leap 5 feet onto a big foot hold and then grab a hand hold
to stay on. It then moved up and over
the same volume but the sequence this time made it really hard to get over it
and you really needed to balance. Once
past the volume, you then had to crossover and down to a jug to be able to then
go back up with the proper hand to the finish.
Out of 17 competitors, 8 topped the route and only 1 climber, Bimini
Horstmann, flashed it. Claire and Kara
Herson both topped it in 2 attempts while Sidney and Margo each took 3 attempts
with Margo just making it with seconds to spare. Everyone else could not get past the tricky
volume section which included Melina, Cierra and Lia who all fell at hold
10. In the end, not getting past the
volume would prove costly for all 3 of them. You can watch here (sorry the recording started late), http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5x7cda_4w7s&list=UUvFEo19_3FQnGo0AZ8w0Oqw&index=10
Semifinal #2 was a burly route that scored to 15 holds but
only 8 climbers made it more than halfway.
It needed a combination of heel hooks into some power throws to get
around the corner and was really tough.
Those climbers that were not good at both of those elements were hurting
on this route and the scores reflected that.
Claire was the only one to top the route and she flashed it. Isabelle Goodacre gave it a great go in
getting to hold 12. Lia made it to hold
9 while both Sidney and Margo got to hold 8.
Melina and Cierra struggled with the heel hook/throw combo and got to
hold 6 and 5, respectively. See how tough here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwKpCJJais4&list=UUvFEo19_3FQnGo0AZ8w0Oqw&index=9
Semifinal #3 scored to 23 and was on the roof but it started
with a tricky sequence that caused a fall for Sidney on her 1st
attempt. It then moved into a corner,
traversed left and then into the roof sequence.
Not losing the heel hook as you were coming out of the roof was the key
to making the route. Both Claire and
Margo flashed the route. Sidney, Bimini
and Hollis Rudd all got to hold 17 with Sidney popping her heel hook as she was
coming out of the roof. Cierra scored to
hold 16 while both Melina and Lia struggled and got to hold 12. View here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZmPiyzH4Gk&list=UUvFEo19_3FQnGo0AZ8w0Oqw&index=8
With Semifinals over, there ended up being 10 spots for Finals. Claire was 1st with 3 tops and
Margo was 2nd with 2 tops. In
order, Sidney, Lily Canavan, Bimini, Adriana Jacobsen, Hollis and Kara all had
1 top with various hold counts/attempts.
The last 2 spots went to Megan Lynch with a hold count of 33 and Isabelle
with a hold count of 32. In
heartbreaking fashion, in 11th place was Lia with a hold count of
31, Cierra was in 12th place
also with a hold count of 31 and Melina was 2 spots back in 14th
place with a hold count of 28. There
were some definite missed opportunities for Melina, Cierra and Lia to make
Finals. Both Cierra and Lia needed 2
more holds to make Finals and Melina needed 4 holds. Melina and Lia probably should have made hold
16 instead of 12 on Semifinal #3 and that would have gotten them in. Cierra struggled with the beta on Semifinal
#2 and probably should have gotten a couple of more holds on that route. All 3 of them were bummed to not make Finals,
especially being so close. They all
climbed great, though and hopefully they will learn from the experience and be
better climbers for it.
Finals were on Sunday and the running order for FYB was
Isabelle, Megan, Hollis, Kara, Adriana, Bimini, Lily, Sidney, Margo and
Claire. Final #1 scored to 14 and was
the obligatory slab route. The only
problem is that only 2 out of the 10 climbers made it to the slab section of
the route. Claire topped the route on
her 2nd attempt and Isabelle came as close as you can get without
making the route. She got to hold 12 but
could not rock over enough on to her high step foot to be stable enough to go
for the finish. The other 8 climbers all
scored to hold 8 so this route could have been named “Feast or Famine.” Not much to see but here it is anyway, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6XYflwRlzs&list=UUvFEo19_3FQnGo0AZ8w0Oqw&index=7
Final #2 was an interesting route and scored to 12 holds. After the start hold, there were 4 big round
volumes in succession in a half circle with a couple of strategically placed
holds. The 4th volume had a
big divot in the right side of it and from there you moved up to a couple of
successive pinches and then to the finish.
A key sequence was figuring out to knee bar between the 2nd
and 3rd volume so that you could crossover to a small hold on top of
the 4th volume. This
controlled your swing and let you control the volume. Most of the climbers that didn’t knee bar
swung off the 4th volume as 7 finalists scored 8 or below. Claire controlled the 4th volume
but could not get past the 1st pinch and scored to hold 9. Sidney and Margo both flashed the route but
did the top section differently as Sidney side pulled the pinch before the
finish while Margo powered straight up to the finish. At this point, the top 3 separated from the
pack a bit as Claire, Margo and Sidney each had 1 top while everyone else did
not. Check it out and enjoy, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAMS0hL5VeU&list=UUvFEo19_3FQnGo0AZ8w0Oqw&index=6
Scoring to hold 20, Final #3 started on a volume that looked
like a dagger and moved up 3 more identical volumes into the roof section. You then worked your way up 4 successive
pinches and had to dynamically go out to a pinch that was on the end of a
volume face that was vertical. From
there you were 3 pinches and a toe hook from the finish. Only Claire, who flashed it, and Margo, on
her 2nd attempt, topped the route.
On her first try, Sidney fell before the finish and scored to hold
18. She probably should have done the
finishing sequence differently but she gave it her all. What was really cool looking was how she did
the dynamic move out to the pinch on the volume face. She went out and momentarily spanned the gap,
then used her momentum to pirouette and swing around to match the hold. You can watch that cool move here, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sa7FIGK1B-s&list=UUvFEo19_3FQnGo0AZ8w0Oqw&index=5
Since only 3 climbers had a Top in Finals, the podium was
set. For the other 7 Finalists, hold count
and attempts would filter everyone out.
The bottom 4 climbers all could not make the dynamic move on Final #3 so
that hurt their chances of moving up as they lost hold count to the rest of the
group. They were Lily in 10th
place (27 holds), Hollis in 9th place(29 holds), Bimini in 8th
place (29 holds) and Megan in 7th place (29 holds). Kara scored 30 holds and came in an
impressive 6th place. Kara is
from Sidney’s division and really improved as the ABS season went along. Great job Kara! Adriana improved her place each round of
climbing and scored 32 total holds for Finals.
This put her in 5th place which I believe is her best placing
at a National event. Congrats! Both Sidney and Isabelle scored 38 holds but
the separator was Sidney’s flash of Final #2.
Isabelle would place 4th and snag the coveted last U.S. Team
spot for the FYB category. Nice! With both Margo and Claire topping 2 routes,
it came down to hold count and Claire’s top of Final #1 would be the
difference. Claire ended up with 43
holds and Margo had 40 holds so the podium was Claire in 1st place,
Margo in 2nd place and Sidney in 3rd place. It was a close competition but Claire
deserved to win as she consistently climbed the best during Semifinals and
Finals.
Another pressure packed National event was in the books and
we actually did something fun this time around as we went to “The Garden of the
Gods” before the first day of competition! This and the first picture on this blog entry proves it,
I often write about Sidney’s consistency as a comp climber but I would be remiss if I didn’t highlight how consistent Margo is as well. Since she is a year older than Sidney, they only compete against one another every other year but Margo has garnered a U.S. Team selection in every Bouldering and Sport National since the beginning of the 2009 season. That’s a total of 9 times! Even Sidney can’t say she has done that as she was just barely edged out in the 2011 ABS National with a 5th place finish. Very impressive Margo!
Of course with this most recent podium finish, Sidney did get her 13th U.S. Team selection and now has a Baker’s Dozen. Amazing! You deserve it Sissy!
Lia, Sidney, Makenna and Zak at the Garden of the Gods. (Photo courtesy of Brad Messinger) |
I often write about Sidney’s consistency as a comp climber but I would be remiss if I didn’t highlight how consistent Margo is as well. Since she is a year older than Sidney, they only compete against one another every other year but Margo has garnered a U.S. Team selection in every Bouldering and Sport National since the beginning of the 2009 season. That’s a total of 9 times! Even Sidney can’t say she has done that as she was just barely edged out in the 2011 ABS National with a 5th place finish. Very impressive Margo!
Of course with this most recent podium finish, Sidney did get her 13th U.S. Team selection and now has a Baker’s Dozen. Amazing! You deserve it Sissy!
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