SCS Regionals for 2012 was this past May 12th and it was held at the Stone Gardens gym in Bellevue, Washington. In the 5 years that Sidney has been climbing, Stone Gardens has never hosted any event that was a Regionals or higher, so this was a first. On the plus side, the gym is very new, clean and has good viewing areas. On the minus side, I would be scoring so the stress level goes up a bit and I don't get to see all the kids climb.
A little different this year was the climbing format. Instead of the usual 2 Qualifier routes for the 1st session and 1 Final route for the finalists in a 2nd session, we did 3 climbs per group with just 1 session for each category. As a parent, I like this format because all the kids get to do 3 climbs. Plus, you don't have to wait around for another session to climb a Finals route. It's basically you climb and then you're done with Sport. On the negative side, the energy in the building was definitely lower than when you have a Finals session. When you watch a Finals session, the tension naturally gets ramped up because it's do or die and you know where everyone stands in the category that you're following. Like most things, there are pros and cons for each format. So looking at it from the perspective of a climbing fan, I definitely prefer the 2 session format because I like the excitement of watching Finals.
Counting Sidney, there were 11 girls in the FYC category. Since Melina Costanza was a Continental Champion, there would be 8 invites to Divisionals instead of the usual 7 invites. So, barring a climbing catastrophe, Sidney would be moving on to Divisionals.........but in what place?
I didn't take any video or pictures of this event or still have the score sheet anymore, so all of this is from memory. What I know for sure is that Sidney and her 3 best friends on the team took the top 4 spots for FYC. Makenna Graham flashed the first two routes with her usual precision. The 3rd route she fell about 1/3 of the way up on a power move/lock off that is definitely not one of her strengths but it was good enough for 4th place. Congrats to her as it was her best placing at any comp that was Regionals or higher! Cierra Graham flashed the first two climbs with ease and fell halfway up on the 3rd climb at the 1st crux. She may have moved through that section a bit quickly but she was solidly in 3rd place. Melina crushed the first 2 climbs and steadily made quick work of the 3rd climb. She flashed it and made it look pretty easy. Sidney flashed 1 and 2 just like the other 3 girls. I fear I may have jinxed her before her 3rd climb because the head route setter asked me if she would want to do a Superfinal and I told him she probably would. We both just assumed that Sidney would flash the route. Well, during Sidney's final climb, he started tweaking a FJR route to get it ready and sure enough, Sidney fell off of a sloper 2 holds from the finish. The top 6 placings all ended up being VW teammates. They were Laili Couper-6th, Piper Boss-5th, Makenna-4th, Cierra-3rd, Sidney-2nd and Melina-1st.
Speed was run after the Sport climbing session. Sorry to give it short shrift but it was literally a hold ladder for the C and D categories. Basically, Sidney went really fast and finished in 1st place. Miriam Timson did bounce back from an early fall in her Sport session to come in 2nd place and Laili showed some flashes of what was to come at Speed Nationals by finishing 3rd if memory serves me correctly. Melina, Cierra and Makenna all received invites to the Divisional for Speed, too.
Congratulations to Melina again, as this was the 2nd year in a row where she took 1st place in Sport at our SCS Regional. Sidney took it in stride since it WAS her best friend that beat her. Sidney and I are quite superstitious, so we took this as a very good omen. After Melina beat her last year at this event, Sidney (she skipped Divisionals) went on to place 3rd in Sport and 1st in Speed at the 2011 SCS Youth Nationals as a first year in her category. Hopefully a similar scenario would be repeated at this year's National but first she had to get through the upcoming Divisional in Oregon.
(Photo courtesy of Alex Fritz)
Sunday, September 9, 2012
Friday, August 17, 2012
2ND ANNUAL SCS ROAD TRIP!!!
Sorry, but it's been almost 5 months since I last posted about Sidney. I tend to post in bunches and then nothing for long periods of time. For anyone who actually reads this blog, you've probably already figured that out.
It was a great SCS season for Sidney but there wasn't a whole lot going on. The only competitive climbing she did was on our road trip, Regionals, Divisionals and Nationals. Oh, and she was on a Nickelodeon TV show. I'll eventually post about all of these events starting with our road trip to.........
Reno! In a nutshell, for the past 2 years, the Culmbacks and Trinidads road trip together to a comp each ABS and SCS season. The past 2 ABS seasons we've gone to Bozeman, Montana and last SCS season we went to Boise, Idaho. We have a blast and love doing it. This year we went bigger! In the span of 6 days the girls went to a comp in Reno, climbed the world's tallest wall at CommRow and climbed for 2 days at Smith Rock. It was action packed. For the 1st time, we took 2 vehicles as the guest list expanded past the normal 7 of the Culmbacks(Janelle, Craig & Kayla), Trinidads(Di, Sidney & myself) and Sequoia. Added to the group were the Graham twins, their dad, Andy, and Melina.
Our road trip centered around the weekend of March 31st. We left on the prior Thursday evening and stayed in Eugene, Oregon. Friday was a travel day the rest of the way to Reno. While in Reno, we were lucky enough to stay at the home of Janelle's good friends, Joe and Cheryl.
On Saturday, the girls climbed at the Rocksport comp they call "The Best Little Comp In The West." It was nice to see people that we don't normally see until Divisionals like Rod Grossman and his family. I also enjoyed just being able to chill at a Local and not worry about helping to run the comp. Sidney and Melina climbed in the Open category while the other 4 girls climbed in their respective age categories. Because the gym is a bit on the small side, the format was different in that they scored your top 5 rope climbs but they also scored your top 3 bouldering routes. Needless to say, Sidney was not a fan of the format as it meant she had to get 8 climbs in and she was nowhere near in rope shape, yet.
All of the girls climbed extremely well. Sidney crushed on the lead routes but struggled a little to get some quality bouldering routes on her scorecard. It didn't help that she did all her rope climbing first and it drained her of some power when it came time to boulder. She finally got a high scoring route at the buzzer that made her happy.
After scores were announced for the USA Climbing portion of the comp, they announced the top 10 overall scores for both genders and they were allowed to participate in an onsight comp of 1 climb for prizes. They broke it up into two categories. "Advanced" were places 6 through 10 and "Open" were places 1 through 5. Sidney qualified in 3rd behind Jacquelyn Wu (2nd) and Cicada Jenerik (1st). Melina also qualified for the Open category in 4th, I believe. Cierra and Sequioa qualified in the Advanced category.
The "Advanced" group climbed first on a route separate from the Open category and Sequoia ended up crushing it and coming in 1st. Cierra had some trouble reading the route but still tied for 3rd which meant she would climb in a SuperFinal after the Open category climbed.
In the "Open" group, the top 3 girls all fell at about the same spot. Sidney came in 3rd, getting movement toward a pinch at the top of the route. Jacquelyn came in 2nd, getting usable surface on the same pinch. Cicada came in 1st, getting control of that pinch. What was unexpected is that Cierra climbed her SuperFinal on the same route and scored better than any of the Open girls did! She definitely had movement off of the pinch and may have had usable on the next hold but I can't be sure of that. That was pretty cool to see. The girls who placed got some prizes for their efforts but nothing major.
Sidney climbing her onsight Finals route. (Photo couresy of me)
After the comp, our group went to a local casino that was kid friendly and we had dinner. Then the girls went on a mission to get as many tickets as possible to win some prizes in the arcade. The girls each ended up getting a big bouncy ball and it only cost me 30 bucks. Woohoo!
Sidney, Makenna, Cierra and Melina standing around a 1,000 ticket jackpot they won. (Photo courtesy of me)
On Sunday morning, we got to CommRow right as it opened at 10am. For those that don't know, CommRow is a hotel right on the strip that has the world's tallest climbing wall affixed to the outside of the building. At 164 feet high, it's quite a sight. The girls bouldered inside for about an hour while we waited for the manager to give us the green light to go outside. The routes up the wall were only rated 5.9/5.10 but the height gave the girls pause and a few of them were a little apprehensive about trying it. They all decided that Sidney should go first and she buzzed right up it. That broke the ice and they soon all followed suit, Melina, Cierra, Sequoia and Makenna. The girls all said the climb wasn't hard but that it was really cool to climb that high.
Here is a view of the wall from the street before any of the girls starting climbing. (Photo courtesy of me)
It's hard to see her but Sidney is on the right route just below the top. (Photo courtesy of me)
As soon as the girls were finished climbing, we parted ways with Melina as she had to fly back to Seattle. The rest of us then started the trek back North to Redmond, Oregon and the famous climbing area, Smith Rock. We arrived in the evening and were really looking forward to a fun day out at the crags.
The next two days at Smith were sort of a blur. The Trinidads and Grahams had never climbed there before so the first day was definitely a learning experience. What we learned was to figure out ahead of time what to climb at Smith and get there early. The first day was also a time for the girls to get the jitters out regarding climbing high on real rock. Even Sidney had some reservations but I was fairly certain that all the girls would climb better on the second day. The girls spent most of that first day climbing some 5.10s just to get comfortable and then a few of the girls started on "Heinous Cling Start" which is a very popular 5.12a. We had been climbing for a while so Sidney was not at her best but it worked out because she took a few falls which helped her get over her fears. After giving it a go or two, we called it a day as we were famished and wanted to have dinner. Plus, we had to take Di to the airport because she had to get home in time for work on Tuesday. I knew the next day would be a good day for Sidney because she told me after dinner that she couldn't wait to tackle "Heinous" again. She also said that she didn't know why she was so scared and that it wasn't going to be a problem anymore. I should point out that all of these girls are gym rats. We try to get outside as much as possible but they train mainly indoors.
True to her word, Sidney redpointed "Heinous" the next day. After getting the 5.12a Start, she kept going and fell a few clips short of finishing the entire route which is 5.12c. Cierra and Sequioa worked it on toprope and both came very close to making it in one go but it was not to be. All the girls climbed well and had a lot of fun. Getting to the crag early also let the adults get on some choice 5.7s and 5.8s so everyone had a great time. The most impressive climbing I saw was when I was belaying Andy on "Heinous" and he got a couple of moves past the long starting crack. He worked it hard and Craig and I were really impressed. Sorry that I don't have any pictures of anyone climbing but I was belaying the whole time and forgot to take some. Sidney was very impressed with Smith Rock and we are definitely going back as soon as we can! Another successful road trip!
It was a great SCS season for Sidney but there wasn't a whole lot going on. The only competitive climbing she did was on our road trip, Regionals, Divisionals and Nationals. Oh, and she was on a Nickelodeon TV show. I'll eventually post about all of these events starting with our road trip to.........
Reno! In a nutshell, for the past 2 years, the Culmbacks and Trinidads road trip together to a comp each ABS and SCS season. The past 2 ABS seasons we've gone to Bozeman, Montana and last SCS season we went to Boise, Idaho. We have a blast and love doing it. This year we went bigger! In the span of 6 days the girls went to a comp in Reno, climbed the world's tallest wall at CommRow and climbed for 2 days at Smith Rock. It was action packed. For the 1st time, we took 2 vehicles as the guest list expanded past the normal 7 of the Culmbacks(Janelle, Craig & Kayla), Trinidads(Di, Sidney & myself) and Sequoia. Added to the group were the Graham twins, their dad, Andy, and Melina.
Our road trip centered around the weekend of March 31st. We left on the prior Thursday evening and stayed in Eugene, Oregon. Friday was a travel day the rest of the way to Reno. While in Reno, we were lucky enough to stay at the home of Janelle's good friends, Joe and Cheryl.
On Saturday, the girls climbed at the Rocksport comp they call "The Best Little Comp In The West." It was nice to see people that we don't normally see until Divisionals like Rod Grossman and his family. I also enjoyed just being able to chill at a Local and not worry about helping to run the comp. Sidney and Melina climbed in the Open category while the other 4 girls climbed in their respective age categories. Because the gym is a bit on the small side, the format was different in that they scored your top 5 rope climbs but they also scored your top 3 bouldering routes. Needless to say, Sidney was not a fan of the format as it meant she had to get 8 climbs in and she was nowhere near in rope shape, yet.
All of the girls climbed extremely well. Sidney crushed on the lead routes but struggled a little to get some quality bouldering routes on her scorecard. It didn't help that she did all her rope climbing first and it drained her of some power when it came time to boulder. She finally got a high scoring route at the buzzer that made her happy.
After scores were announced for the USA Climbing portion of the comp, they announced the top 10 overall scores for both genders and they were allowed to participate in an onsight comp of 1 climb for prizes. They broke it up into two categories. "Advanced" were places 6 through 10 and "Open" were places 1 through 5. Sidney qualified in 3rd behind Jacquelyn Wu (2nd) and Cicada Jenerik (1st). Melina also qualified for the Open category in 4th, I believe. Cierra and Sequioa qualified in the Advanced category.
The "Advanced" group climbed first on a route separate from the Open category and Sequoia ended up crushing it and coming in 1st. Cierra had some trouble reading the route but still tied for 3rd which meant she would climb in a SuperFinal after the Open category climbed.
In the "Open" group, the top 3 girls all fell at about the same spot. Sidney came in 3rd, getting movement toward a pinch at the top of the route. Jacquelyn came in 2nd, getting usable surface on the same pinch. Cicada came in 1st, getting control of that pinch. What was unexpected is that Cierra climbed her SuperFinal on the same route and scored better than any of the Open girls did! She definitely had movement off of the pinch and may have had usable on the next hold but I can't be sure of that. That was pretty cool to see. The girls who placed got some prizes for their efforts but nothing major.
After the comp, our group went to a local casino that was kid friendly and we had dinner. Then the girls went on a mission to get as many tickets as possible to win some prizes in the arcade. The girls each ended up getting a big bouncy ball and it only cost me 30 bucks. Woohoo!
On Sunday morning, we got to CommRow right as it opened at 10am. For those that don't know, CommRow is a hotel right on the strip that has the world's tallest climbing wall affixed to the outside of the building. At 164 feet high, it's quite a sight. The girls bouldered inside for about an hour while we waited for the manager to give us the green light to go outside. The routes up the wall were only rated 5.9/5.10 but the height gave the girls pause and a few of them were a little apprehensive about trying it. They all decided that Sidney should go first and she buzzed right up it. That broke the ice and they soon all followed suit, Melina, Cierra, Sequoia and Makenna. The girls all said the climb wasn't hard but that it was really cool to climb that high.
As soon as the girls were finished climbing, we parted ways with Melina as she had to fly back to Seattle. The rest of us then started the trek back North to Redmond, Oregon and the famous climbing area, Smith Rock. We arrived in the evening and were really looking forward to a fun day out at the crags.
The next two days at Smith were sort of a blur. The Trinidads and Grahams had never climbed there before so the first day was definitely a learning experience. What we learned was to figure out ahead of time what to climb at Smith and get there early. The first day was also a time for the girls to get the jitters out regarding climbing high on real rock. Even Sidney had some reservations but I was fairly certain that all the girls would climb better on the second day. The girls spent most of that first day climbing some 5.10s just to get comfortable and then a few of the girls started on "Heinous Cling Start" which is a very popular 5.12a. We had been climbing for a while so Sidney was not at her best but it worked out because she took a few falls which helped her get over her fears. After giving it a go or two, we called it a day as we were famished and wanted to have dinner. Plus, we had to take Di to the airport because she had to get home in time for work on Tuesday. I knew the next day would be a good day for Sidney because she told me after dinner that she couldn't wait to tackle "Heinous" again. She also said that she didn't know why she was so scared and that it wasn't going to be a problem anymore. I should point out that all of these girls are gym rats. We try to get outside as much as possible but they train mainly indoors.
True to her word, Sidney redpointed "Heinous" the next day. After getting the 5.12a Start, she kept going and fell a few clips short of finishing the entire route which is 5.12c. Cierra and Sequioa worked it on toprope and both came very close to making it in one go but it was not to be. All the girls climbed well and had a lot of fun. Getting to the crag early also let the adults get on some choice 5.7s and 5.8s so everyone had a great time. The most impressive climbing I saw was when I was belaying Andy on "Heinous" and he got a couple of moves past the long starting crack. He worked it hard and Craig and I were really impressed. Sorry that I don't have any pictures of anyone climbing but I was belaying the whole time and forgot to take some. Sidney was very impressed with Smith Rock and we are definitely going back as soon as we can! Another successful road trip!
Thursday, March 29, 2012
MEDALS.
After last summer's SCS Nationals in Hotlanta, Sidney had completed 4 full years of competitive youth climbing. Over that time, she had accumulated a lot of medals that had filled up a small shoe box. I decided to get all arts and crafty by surprising her with some kind of medal case. Let me tell you, it was a lot harder project than I thought.
First, I am not capable of making a medal case so I had to buy one. There is not a big market for medal cases online so the pickings were slim. The few that I liked were very expensive. Finally, I found one that fit my needs to house a lot of medals and while still expensive, didn't break my bank.
Second, I had to buy some cardboard/foam to hang the medals on inside of the case as it was empty. After looking in 5 different craft/art supply stores, I finally found exactly what I was looking for and prepared to get my arts and crafts on.
Third, arts and crafts are hard!! Being a perfectionist didn't help but I spent 3 nights and at least 7 hours working on that case! I got all the medals in it but unfortunately I was not done. There was still room for 3 more medals. So I hung it up on the wall and patiently waited until this past Bouldering season was finished. Thankfully, Sidney won 3 more medals to fill the case and now I am good to go for another 4 1/2 years!! Time to fill up another small shoe box.
All of Sidney's medals at Regionals, Divisionals and Nationals, starting at the beginning of the 2008 season and ending with the 2012 ABS13 Nationals. (Photo courtesy of me)
First, I am not capable of making a medal case so I had to buy one. There is not a big market for medal cases online so the pickings were slim. The few that I liked were very expensive. Finally, I found one that fit my needs to house a lot of medals and while still expensive, didn't break my bank.
Second, I had to buy some cardboard/foam to hang the medals on inside of the case as it was empty. After looking in 5 different craft/art supply stores, I finally found exactly what I was looking for and prepared to get my arts and crafts on.
Third, arts and crafts are hard!! Being a perfectionist didn't help but I spent 3 nights and at least 7 hours working on that case! I got all the medals in it but unfortunately I was not done. There was still room for 3 more medals. So I hung it up on the wall and patiently waited until this past Bouldering season was finished. Thankfully, Sidney won 3 more medals to fill the case and now I am good to go for another 4 1/2 years!! Time to fill up another small shoe box.
Friday, March 16, 2012
ABS 13 NATIONALS!!
Finally. After 7 weeks since Divisionals, ABS 13 Nationals took place on March 2nd through the 4th in Colorado Springs. That's 3 weeks longer than usual and Sidney and I were getting antsy. With all that time for the anticipation to build, would ABS 13 Nationals live up to all the expectations and drama we had been thinking about for almost 2 months? The answer was yes and to put it mildly, it was quite the nailbiter.
First off, I loved the set-up that USA Climbing used for this National! The new walls were great but the City Auditorium venue they rented was very cool. There were tons of seating for people on the floor and if you wanted more of a bird's eye view, great seating in the balcony. City Rock was literally right next door so everything was really close and accessible. Fantastic!
The official climbing wall for ABS 13 Nationals. (Photo courtesy of Christine Ruana)
In previous posts, I've alluded to the fact that I thought Sidney, Melina Costanza, Cierra Graham and Lia Messinger were in the top 5 for their category in the nation. It just so happens that they are all in the same Division. Rounding out my top 5, of course, would be Grace Kane and she has since moved back to our Division so now all 5 are in Division 1! One or two kids usually bubble up and are in the mix for the podium, too, so I was curious to see how the placings would end up.
Qualifiers started on that Friday with 35 competitors and 4 problems. Qualifier # 1 was fairly easy with all but two girls making the route. Qualifier # 2 was even easier as all the girls made the route. Qualifier # 3 was the difference between moving on to Semifinals or watching for the rest of the weekend. A little over halfway up the route was a big move that 16 climbers made. The cutoff for Semifinals was the top 17, so basically if you didn't make the move you were not moving on. Qualifier # 4 was an overhang route that was pretty tough unless you were able to keep your feet on the wall to keep tension. A total of 6 girls flashed all 4 routes and they were Sidney, Melina, Cierra, Grace, Bimini Horstmann and Ivy Todd. Lia had problems on Qualifier # 4 and was only able to get halfway up. She ended up in 16th place but was still in it as the scores zero out after each round and I was sure she would bounce back. Sidney, Melina and Cierra looked strong throughout although Cierra looked a bit pumped at the finish of Qualifier # 4.
Semifinals were on Saturday with 17 competitors and 3 problems. Semifinal # 1 was a slab route that all but 3 climbers flashed. The big surprise was when it was Grace Kane's turn to come out of ISO, she was nowhere to be seen. Word spread quickly that she was extremely sick and would not be able to climb. Grace and her family are the nicest people you will ever meet so it was very disheartening to see that happen. Semifinal # 2 kicked it up a notch with 6 girls flashing the problem and 1 girl, Louise Tester, making it on her 3rd attempt. Melina, Cierra and Lia all looked good in flashing the problem but Sidney looked especially strong in her flash. Bimini and Cayley Ryan were the other two girls to flash the route. Semifinal # 3 was a long route that had a big move halfway up, then some overhang to get you pumped and finally some slopers at the end to buck you off. Lia was the first to get past the big move. She then worked her way up to hold 19 before falling to qualify for Finals in 5th. Cierra had two really good attempts and got by the big move both times. On her 1st attempt, her foot sequencing was her downfall as her foot popped while going for hold 23 to qualify in 4th place. Melina looked a bit lost with her sequencing but was stellar at the top and fell trying to match for hold 24. She was 1 hold higher than Cierra and went into Finals in 3rd place. Bimini looked very strong and matched on the 2nd to last hold but rushed going to the final hold and fell. She was 1 hold higher than Melina and was in 2nd place going into Finals. Sidney absolutely crushed the route! She was smooth, strong and precise in flashing the climb with no problems at all.
On Sunday, there were 11 competitors in Finals. In reverse order they were, Maya Johnson, Grace Scott, Ivy, Emerson Nairon, Louise, Cayley, Lia, Cierra, Melina, Bimini and Sidney. Right away, Final # 1 looked like major trouble to me for Sidney. She is very good at slab but not great. It's her Achilles Heel but I was hoping for the best. Louise was the first girl to make the route and that was on her 3rd try. To her credit, she didn't give up and in the end that was huge as I will explain later. Lia was the next climber to make it and that was on her 2nd try. She was able to use her incredible length to avoid having to go down into the side pull before the finish. Cierra and Melina climbed awesome in flashing the route although Cierra looked like she almost fell in trying to give the judge a thumbs up at the finish! Bimini looked good but fell trying to match the finish hold and could not get to the same point on her next try. Being 1 hold short and not getting the Top would prove very costly after all was said and done. Sidney looked fine on her first attempt until the side pull near the finish. She misread needing to use the arete and fell. Her 2nd attempt was better but she started to run out of time and fell going to the finish with 2 seconds remaining on the clock. Uh oh. This left her in a major hole. It also put Melina, Cierra and Lia in the driver's seat with a huge chance to win if they could Top Final # 2 or # 3.
Sidney on Final # 1. Would the slab end up being her downfall? (Photo courtesy of Robyn Graham)
Final # 2 was pretty straightforward with a fairly tough finish. It started with a traverse to the left that gave a couple of girls fits. It then moved up into some slab and an undercling. From there you needed to get as high as possible and fall into a big, two handed jug. The rest of the route needed to be sequenced properly and then a power move to the finish. On her first try, Lia had to work a bit to get to the big jug. Then on the next sequence, she had to cross over to the right with her left hand while hanging. This caused her to turn the wrong way and she had to muscle back the other way to continue up to the power move. I think by that time she was pumped as she had been on the wall for almost 90 seconds. She went for the power move and held it for almost a second before falling. Cierra had two very good tries at it but with the same result as she fell attempting the same move. Melina fell at the same spot as the other two. That left Bimini and Sidney. As I recall, on her first attempt, Bimini snagged the power move just like Lia and held it for almost a second before falling. Then here is where it got very interesting. On her second attempt, she snagged the power move right as the clock struck 0.00. It was very chaotic and loud but I was watching very closely. It looked to me as though she touched the next hold at the precise moment that time ran out. What was a bit disconcerting is that Sidney turned around to start climbing and Bimini was still finishing the route. Like I said, it was loud and people were cheering so it was hard to hear the voice timer. I was fairly confident that they were not going to give her credit for making the move as I saw the judges shaking their heads but you never know. Sidney didn't let that affect her and went about her business. She bounced back from the disappointment of Final # 1 and cruised the route for the category's only Top and Flash of Final # 2. I was proud of her for re-grouping and showing her mettle. At this point, I thought she was at least even with the other girls if not ahead on hold count.
Sidney on Final # 2 right at the power move to the finish. (Photo courtesy of Robyn Graham)
Final # 3 was a bit anti-climactic as all 5 girls had the same high point of hold 13. Both Lia and Bimini got it on their 1st attempts, Melina and Sidney got it on their 2nd attempts and Cierra got there on her 3rd attempt. Sidney did snag hold 14 on her 2nd attempt and held it for a tantalizing second before swinging off but it was not meant to be. Her climbing was now done and she had climbed great. Now it was time to sweat the scores.
I thought that Sidney had come in 1st by 1 hold but it's hard to predict how the route setters score each route. It wasn't long until they posted scores and I saw that Sidney did indeed place 1st.....by 1 hold! Here is how the scoring broke down.
1st - Sidney - 1 Top - 48 Holds - 1 Flash - U.S. Team
2nd - Melina - 1 Top - 47 Holds - 1 Flash - 4 Attempts To High Point - U.S. Team
3rd - Cierra - 1 Top - 47 Holds - 1 Flash - 5 Attempts To High Point - U.S. Team
4th - Lia - 1 Top - 47 Holds - No Flashes - U.S. Team
5th - Louise - 1 Top - 25 Holds - No Flashes - U.S. Team
6th - Bimini - No Tops - 46 Holds - No flashes - 3 Attempts To High Point
It was amazing how close the scoring ended up being. Take note how important it was that Louise made Final # 1 on her 3rd try as it bumped her up into the final U.S. Team spot. Bimini climbed extremely well but her inability to get a Top dropped her into 6th place. I felt bad for her but was equally as happy for Louise as she never gave up and pulled it out. The "what if" scenarios were plentiful. If Bimini had been able to pull out the final hold and flash Final # 1, she would have placed 2nd. If she had climbed 5 seconds faster on Final # 2 then she would have won. If Lia, Cierra or Melina had been able to hang on and make the power move on Final # 2, then any of them would have won.
Sidney, Melina, Cierra and Lia. The top 4 from Division 1 are the top 4 in the nation! (Photo courtesy of the Graham family)
The awards ceremony was a really, really special moment for the Trinidad, Costanza and Graham families. We spend a huge amount of time together and devote a lot of effort to making sure the girls have every opportunity to try and reach their goals. It was also a tremendous moment for the team. To see all red and white on the podium was a very cool sight. To put the Vertical World sweep of the podium into perspective, of the other 9 categories, no team had 2 climbers on the same podium, let alone 3 of them. To celebrate this event, I will post 2 pictures of the podium!
Melina, Sidney and Cierra before getting their medals. Nice smiles! (Photo courtesy of Christine Ruana)
Melina, Sidney and Cierra after getting their medals. Great job! (Photo courtesy of Makenna Graham)
As I expected, Sidney climbed spectacularly in flashing 8 of the 10 comp routes. She only made 2 mistakes the whole comp, but unfortunately they were during Finals and it almost cost her. The first was not sequencing Final # 1 correctly. Not making that route really opened the door for any of the other girls to step through and win. The second was not sequencing her feet the correct way in moving off of the big pinch on Final # 3. She put her feet to the left instead of putting them to the right and it got her pumped well before her high point of Hold 13. In talking with her after the results were posted, she told me right away about both of those mistakes before I could even bring it up, so I know she has learned from them already. Even though she climbed great and won, she told me the next day that it was really bugging her that she didn't flash Final # 1 and # 3. She is her own biggest critic. I guess that's one of the reasons she is such a great climber.
Finally, winning this event puts Sidney in some very rare company. Dating back to the 2008 season, she joins Dana Riddle as the only female youth competitors to win a National Championship in all 3 climbing disciplines. Sidney and Dana are also the only females to have 10 or more U.S. Team selections during that time. Even with all of those accolades, she is still as humble as ever and she continues to work hard at her craft. I could not be more proud of her.
First off, I loved the set-up that USA Climbing used for this National! The new walls were great but the City Auditorium venue they rented was very cool. There were tons of seating for people on the floor and if you wanted more of a bird's eye view, great seating in the balcony. City Rock was literally right next door so everything was really close and accessible. Fantastic!
In previous posts, I've alluded to the fact that I thought Sidney, Melina Costanza, Cierra Graham and Lia Messinger were in the top 5 for their category in the nation. It just so happens that they are all in the same Division. Rounding out my top 5, of course, would be Grace Kane and she has since moved back to our Division so now all 5 are in Division 1! One or two kids usually bubble up and are in the mix for the podium, too, so I was curious to see how the placings would end up.
Qualifiers started on that Friday with 35 competitors and 4 problems. Qualifier # 1 was fairly easy with all but two girls making the route. Qualifier # 2 was even easier as all the girls made the route. Qualifier # 3 was the difference between moving on to Semifinals or watching for the rest of the weekend. A little over halfway up the route was a big move that 16 climbers made. The cutoff for Semifinals was the top 17, so basically if you didn't make the move you were not moving on. Qualifier # 4 was an overhang route that was pretty tough unless you were able to keep your feet on the wall to keep tension. A total of 6 girls flashed all 4 routes and they were Sidney, Melina, Cierra, Grace, Bimini Horstmann and Ivy Todd. Lia had problems on Qualifier # 4 and was only able to get halfway up. She ended up in 16th place but was still in it as the scores zero out after each round and I was sure she would bounce back. Sidney, Melina and Cierra looked strong throughout although Cierra looked a bit pumped at the finish of Qualifier # 4.
Semifinals were on Saturday with 17 competitors and 3 problems. Semifinal # 1 was a slab route that all but 3 climbers flashed. The big surprise was when it was Grace Kane's turn to come out of ISO, she was nowhere to be seen. Word spread quickly that she was extremely sick and would not be able to climb. Grace and her family are the nicest people you will ever meet so it was very disheartening to see that happen. Semifinal # 2 kicked it up a notch with 6 girls flashing the problem and 1 girl, Louise Tester, making it on her 3rd attempt. Melina, Cierra and Lia all looked good in flashing the problem but Sidney looked especially strong in her flash. Bimini and Cayley Ryan were the other two girls to flash the route. Semifinal # 3 was a long route that had a big move halfway up, then some overhang to get you pumped and finally some slopers at the end to buck you off. Lia was the first to get past the big move. She then worked her way up to hold 19 before falling to qualify for Finals in 5th. Cierra had two really good attempts and got by the big move both times. On her 1st attempt, her foot sequencing was her downfall as her foot popped while going for hold 23 to qualify in 4th place. Melina looked a bit lost with her sequencing but was stellar at the top and fell trying to match for hold 24. She was 1 hold higher than Cierra and went into Finals in 3rd place. Bimini looked very strong and matched on the 2nd to last hold but rushed going to the final hold and fell. She was 1 hold higher than Melina and was in 2nd place going into Finals. Sidney absolutely crushed the route! She was smooth, strong and precise in flashing the climb with no problems at all.
On Sunday, there were 11 competitors in Finals. In reverse order they were, Maya Johnson, Grace Scott, Ivy, Emerson Nairon, Louise, Cayley, Lia, Cierra, Melina, Bimini and Sidney. Right away, Final # 1 looked like major trouble to me for Sidney. She is very good at slab but not great. It's her Achilles Heel but I was hoping for the best. Louise was the first girl to make the route and that was on her 3rd try. To her credit, she didn't give up and in the end that was huge as I will explain later. Lia was the next climber to make it and that was on her 2nd try. She was able to use her incredible length to avoid having to go down into the side pull before the finish. Cierra and Melina climbed awesome in flashing the route although Cierra looked like she almost fell in trying to give the judge a thumbs up at the finish! Bimini looked good but fell trying to match the finish hold and could not get to the same point on her next try. Being 1 hold short and not getting the Top would prove very costly after all was said and done. Sidney looked fine on her first attempt until the side pull near the finish. She misread needing to use the arete and fell. Her 2nd attempt was better but she started to run out of time and fell going to the finish with 2 seconds remaining on the clock. Uh oh. This left her in a major hole. It also put Melina, Cierra and Lia in the driver's seat with a huge chance to win if they could Top Final # 2 or # 3.
Final # 2 was pretty straightforward with a fairly tough finish. It started with a traverse to the left that gave a couple of girls fits. It then moved up into some slab and an undercling. From there you needed to get as high as possible and fall into a big, two handed jug. The rest of the route needed to be sequenced properly and then a power move to the finish. On her first try, Lia had to work a bit to get to the big jug. Then on the next sequence, she had to cross over to the right with her left hand while hanging. This caused her to turn the wrong way and she had to muscle back the other way to continue up to the power move. I think by that time she was pumped as she had been on the wall for almost 90 seconds. She went for the power move and held it for almost a second before falling. Cierra had two very good tries at it but with the same result as she fell attempting the same move. Melina fell at the same spot as the other two. That left Bimini and Sidney. As I recall, on her first attempt, Bimini snagged the power move just like Lia and held it for almost a second before falling. Then here is where it got very interesting. On her second attempt, she snagged the power move right as the clock struck 0.00. It was very chaotic and loud but I was watching very closely. It looked to me as though she touched the next hold at the precise moment that time ran out. What was a bit disconcerting is that Sidney turned around to start climbing and Bimini was still finishing the route. Like I said, it was loud and people were cheering so it was hard to hear the voice timer. I was fairly confident that they were not going to give her credit for making the move as I saw the judges shaking their heads but you never know. Sidney didn't let that affect her and went about her business. She bounced back from the disappointment of Final # 1 and cruised the route for the category's only Top and Flash of Final # 2. I was proud of her for re-grouping and showing her mettle. At this point, I thought she was at least even with the other girls if not ahead on hold count.
Final # 3 was a bit anti-climactic as all 5 girls had the same high point of hold 13. Both Lia and Bimini got it on their 1st attempts, Melina and Sidney got it on their 2nd attempts and Cierra got there on her 3rd attempt. Sidney did snag hold 14 on her 2nd attempt and held it for a tantalizing second before swinging off but it was not meant to be. Her climbing was now done and she had climbed great. Now it was time to sweat the scores.
I thought that Sidney had come in 1st by 1 hold but it's hard to predict how the route setters score each route. It wasn't long until they posted scores and I saw that Sidney did indeed place 1st.....by 1 hold! Here is how the scoring broke down.
1st - Sidney - 1 Top - 48 Holds - 1 Flash - U.S. Team
2nd - Melina - 1 Top - 47 Holds - 1 Flash - 4 Attempts To High Point - U.S. Team
3rd - Cierra - 1 Top - 47 Holds - 1 Flash - 5 Attempts To High Point - U.S. Team
4th - Lia - 1 Top - 47 Holds - No Flashes - U.S. Team
5th - Louise - 1 Top - 25 Holds - No Flashes - U.S. Team
6th - Bimini - No Tops - 46 Holds - No flashes - 3 Attempts To High Point
It was amazing how close the scoring ended up being. Take note how important it was that Louise made Final # 1 on her 3rd try as it bumped her up into the final U.S. Team spot. Bimini climbed extremely well but her inability to get a Top dropped her into 6th place. I felt bad for her but was equally as happy for Louise as she never gave up and pulled it out. The "what if" scenarios were plentiful. If Bimini had been able to pull out the final hold and flash Final # 1, she would have placed 2nd. If she had climbed 5 seconds faster on Final # 2 then she would have won. If Lia, Cierra or Melina had been able to hang on and make the power move on Final # 2, then any of them would have won.
The awards ceremony was a really, really special moment for the Trinidad, Costanza and Graham families. We spend a huge amount of time together and devote a lot of effort to making sure the girls have every opportunity to try and reach their goals. It was also a tremendous moment for the team. To see all red and white on the podium was a very cool sight. To put the Vertical World sweep of the podium into perspective, of the other 9 categories, no team had 2 climbers on the same podium, let alone 3 of them. To celebrate this event, I will post 2 pictures of the podium!
As I expected, Sidney climbed spectacularly in flashing 8 of the 10 comp routes. She only made 2 mistakes the whole comp, but unfortunately they were during Finals and it almost cost her. The first was not sequencing Final # 1 correctly. Not making that route really opened the door for any of the other girls to step through and win. The second was not sequencing her feet the correct way in moving off of the big pinch on Final # 3. She put her feet to the left instead of putting them to the right and it got her pumped well before her high point of Hold 13. In talking with her after the results were posted, she told me right away about both of those mistakes before I could even bring it up, so I know she has learned from them already. Even though she climbed great and won, she told me the next day that it was really bugging her that she didn't flash Final # 1 and # 3. She is her own biggest critic. I guess that's one of the reasons she is such a great climber.
Finally, winning this event puts Sidney in some very rare company. Dating back to the 2008 season, she joins Dana Riddle as the only female youth competitors to win a National Championship in all 3 climbing disciplines. Sidney and Dana are also the only females to have 10 or more U.S. Team selections during that time. Even with all of those accolades, she is still as humble as ever and she continues to work hard at her craft. I could not be more proud of her.
Friday, February 10, 2012
FRIENDSHIPS THROUGH CLIMBING.
Sidney is lucky to have found climbing so early in life. The most important reason is the meaningful friendships she has formed through climbing and the team. Her 3 best friends on the team are Melina, Cierra and Makenna. I thought it would be a great time to look at their friendship through pictures so here they are. Enjoy!
Sidney and Melina became friends first. Sidney had already been climbing for VW for a year when Melina joined the team. However, it wasn't until Melina's 2nd year on the team that they became best friends and starting training together more.
Melina and Sidney at what looks to be the Stone Gardens gym. Of course they are wearing the same socks. (Photo courtesy of Michele Costanza)
They like to tell people they are twins which most people believe.
Sidney and Melina all dressed up and what are they wearing?! Skirts! (Photo courtesy of me)
They soon met and became best friends with "real" twins, Makenna and Cierra.
The girls before running in a 5K race last year. Again, what's with the socks?! (Photo courtesy of Robyn Graham)
They also like to fly.
The girls, along with Sidney's brother Chase, getting ready to simulate skydiving at iFly. (Photo courtesy of me)
They never fight except as their alter-egos.
The Joker and Riddler getting taken down by Batman and Robin! (Photo courtesy of Robyn Graham)
They love the snow but who doesn't?
Makenna, Sidney and Cierra enjoying the snow after Divisionals. (Photo courtesy of Robyn Graham)
To best friends!
The girls being cute while waiting for the scores from Divisionals at the SBP. (Photo courtesy of Robyn Graham)
Sidney and Melina became friends first. Sidney had already been climbing for VW for a year when Melina joined the team. However, it wasn't until Melina's 2nd year on the team that they became best friends and starting training together more.
They like to tell people they are twins which most people believe.
They soon met and became best friends with "real" twins, Makenna and Cierra.
They also like to fly.
They never fight except as their alter-egos.
They love the snow but who doesn't?
To best friends!
Monday, February 6, 2012
ABS 13 DIVISIONALS!
Wow! Our first ever Divisional for Bouldering was at the Seattle Bouldering Project three weeks ago on January 14th and 15th. I say wow because there was some awesome climbing that weekend and I am still trying to process all of it. The best youth climbers from Washington, Alaska, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Northern California and Northern Nevada converged a mile from my house for 2 very cool days of climbing with National invites at stake.
I decided to go back to shooting video on my Flip camera instead of my iPhone so I do not have any pictures of Sidney climbing. Of course all of her climbs are on our youTube channel, Chasesidney13, so go watch them!
If you've read my previous posts, you'd know that Sidney's category, FYC, is especially tough in our division this year. Sidney, Melina, Cierra and Lia have high expectations to do very well at ABS Nationals this year so the main thing was to get an invite. Of course, that's not how they think as they all want to make the podium.
Saturday was qualifiers in which there were 3 routes per category. On Qualifier # 1, 21 girls flashed the route. On Qualifier # 2, it separated a little bit with 11 girls flashing the route and 2 girls making it on their 2nd attempt. The level of difficulty bumped up tremendously for Qualifier # 3 as only 3 girls flashed it and 1 girl made it on her 2nd try. Do you know who that 1 girl was? Sidney. I'm spoiled when I watch her climb because there is rarely any drama so it was a bit jarring to see her fall going to the finish move on her 1st attempt. It was preceded by a sequencing mistake that got her pumped before the finish but usually she always pulls it out. The 3 girls that flashed Qualifier # 3, of course, were Melina, Cierra and Lia. This put Sidney in the unfamiliar position of going into Finals in 4th place. I thought this was a great situation for her as it would put less pressure on her as the other 3 would be climbing after her in Finals. At the time, Sidney did not see it the same way I did as she was not a happy camper for a few hours after Qualifiers. I could tell she was burning up inside and could not wait for Finals to release some of her angst on the wall.
There were 3 routes for Finals on Sunday and all the girls were chomping at the bit to get out there. The route setters started separating right away on Final # 1, as only 5 of the 11 finalists flashed the route and they were Olivia Brumwell, Sidney, Melina, Cierra and Lia. Final # 2 held true to form as the same 5 girls were the only ones to make it with Olivia being the only one not to flash it. It all came down to Final # 3 as Sidney would need to out climb Melina, Cierra and Lia to finish in 1st as she was behind on countbacks to Qualifiers.
Final # 3 was very, very tough. It scored to 15 points and you needed a wide repertoire of moves to be able to bag it. Balance, slopers, aretes, crimps, power moves. Tough.
On Sidney's 1st attempt, she climbed strong and got to hold 10, which was the high point for the girls at that time. She tried to Dyno for the finish from there but was not close as that was the wrong beta because there were two holds that she missed on the wall around the arete.
On Sidney's 2nd attempt, she again scored to the 10 hold but this time did the right beta. Alas, she could not hang on to hold 11. Although she had done the right beta, she still had not seen the two holds around the arete. After falling, she walked out to look around the arete, saw them and then had the "I'm such an idiot" look on her face.
She regrouped and started her 3rd attempt with a minute left to climb. This time, she tweaked her beta at the top by eventually getting way out to the first hold on the outside wall before falling into the blue crimp with the left hand. Two moves later she was matching on the finish while the crowd roared with approval. Now it was time to see what the other 3 girls could do.
Melina was up next. She noticed the holds on the outside of the arete right away but would she be able to get to that part of the route? On her first try, she climbed very strong, got to hold 9 but then misread the beta as she did not use the arete to get into the left hand crimp. She fell while trying to figure it out and did not get any higher on subsequent attempts which put her in 2nd place at the moment.
Next to climb was Cierra and on her 1st try, she made it to hold 6 (round blue sloper) before falling. On her 2nd attempt, she changed her beta up a little and made it to hold 7 before falling while pulling up to match the orange sloper. She would not get any higher after that but tweaking her beta on her 2nd attempt would prove to be the difference between 3rd and 4th place as Lia's high hold ended up being 6 on her first attempt.
In the end, the placings went as I expected with Sidney in 1st, Melina in 2nd, Cierra in 3rd and Lia in 4th but is was essentially tied until Final # 3. The C boys also climbed the same routes as the girls and none of them were able to make Final # 3 so Sidney was the only climber to finish the route. Like I said earlier, TOUGH.
My favorite moment of the comp was seeing all 3 girls on the podium sporting their VW gear and having the biggest smiles! It was the only podium (out of 10) where 1 team swept the top 3 spots so that was special for us and the team. Thankfully, I do have a picture of that.
Sidney, Melina and Cierra sweeping the podium for FYC. (Photo courtesy of Robyn Graham)
Nationals is in a month in Colorado Springs. Wish us luck!
I decided to go back to shooting video on my Flip camera instead of my iPhone so I do not have any pictures of Sidney climbing. Of course all of her climbs are on our youTube channel, Chasesidney13, so go watch them!
If you've read my previous posts, you'd know that Sidney's category, FYC, is especially tough in our division this year. Sidney, Melina, Cierra and Lia have high expectations to do very well at ABS Nationals this year so the main thing was to get an invite. Of course, that's not how they think as they all want to make the podium.
Saturday was qualifiers in which there were 3 routes per category. On Qualifier # 1, 21 girls flashed the route. On Qualifier # 2, it separated a little bit with 11 girls flashing the route and 2 girls making it on their 2nd attempt. The level of difficulty bumped up tremendously for Qualifier # 3 as only 3 girls flashed it and 1 girl made it on her 2nd try. Do you know who that 1 girl was? Sidney. I'm spoiled when I watch her climb because there is rarely any drama so it was a bit jarring to see her fall going to the finish move on her 1st attempt. It was preceded by a sequencing mistake that got her pumped before the finish but usually she always pulls it out. The 3 girls that flashed Qualifier # 3, of course, were Melina, Cierra and Lia. This put Sidney in the unfamiliar position of going into Finals in 4th place. I thought this was a great situation for her as it would put less pressure on her as the other 3 would be climbing after her in Finals. At the time, Sidney did not see it the same way I did as she was not a happy camper for a few hours after Qualifiers. I could tell she was burning up inside and could not wait for Finals to release some of her angst on the wall.
There were 3 routes for Finals on Sunday and all the girls were chomping at the bit to get out there. The route setters started separating right away on Final # 1, as only 5 of the 11 finalists flashed the route and they were Olivia Brumwell, Sidney, Melina, Cierra and Lia. Final # 2 held true to form as the same 5 girls were the only ones to make it with Olivia being the only one not to flash it. It all came down to Final # 3 as Sidney would need to out climb Melina, Cierra and Lia to finish in 1st as she was behind on countbacks to Qualifiers.
Final # 3 was very, very tough. It scored to 15 points and you needed a wide repertoire of moves to be able to bag it. Balance, slopers, aretes, crimps, power moves. Tough.
On Sidney's 1st attempt, she climbed strong and got to hold 10, which was the high point for the girls at that time. She tried to Dyno for the finish from there but was not close as that was the wrong beta because there were two holds that she missed on the wall around the arete.
On Sidney's 2nd attempt, she again scored to the 10 hold but this time did the right beta. Alas, she could not hang on to hold 11. Although she had done the right beta, she still had not seen the two holds around the arete. After falling, she walked out to look around the arete, saw them and then had the "I'm such an idiot" look on her face.
She regrouped and started her 3rd attempt with a minute left to climb. This time, she tweaked her beta at the top by eventually getting way out to the first hold on the outside wall before falling into the blue crimp with the left hand. Two moves later she was matching on the finish while the crowd roared with approval. Now it was time to see what the other 3 girls could do.
Melina was up next. She noticed the holds on the outside of the arete right away but would she be able to get to that part of the route? On her first try, she climbed very strong, got to hold 9 but then misread the beta as she did not use the arete to get into the left hand crimp. She fell while trying to figure it out and did not get any higher on subsequent attempts which put her in 2nd place at the moment.
Next to climb was Cierra and on her 1st try, she made it to hold 6 (round blue sloper) before falling. On her 2nd attempt, she changed her beta up a little and made it to hold 7 before falling while pulling up to match the orange sloper. She would not get any higher after that but tweaking her beta on her 2nd attempt would prove to be the difference between 3rd and 4th place as Lia's high hold ended up being 6 on her first attempt.
In the end, the placings went as I expected with Sidney in 1st, Melina in 2nd, Cierra in 3rd and Lia in 4th but is was essentially tied until Final # 3. The C boys also climbed the same routes as the girls and none of them were able to make Final # 3 so Sidney was the only climber to finish the route. Like I said earlier, TOUGH.
My favorite moment of the comp was seeing all 3 girls on the podium sporting their VW gear and having the biggest smiles! It was the only podium (out of 10) where 1 team swept the top 3 spots so that was special for us and the team. Thankfully, I do have a picture of that.
Nationals is in a month in Colorado Springs. Wish us luck!
Monday, January 2, 2012
ABS 13 REGIONALS!
ABS 13 Regionals was earlier last month on December 10th. Last year at Regionals, we had almost 170 competitors. This year, because of the region realignment, we only had a little bit over 90 climbers. This made for a less chaotic comp, especially since it was held at the Tacoma Vertical Club once again. Sidney's category (FYC) was the biggest at 16 climbers with the format being the usual 3 routes for Qualifiers and 3 routes for Finals.
Sidney was later in the running order for Qualifiers so I was able to watch her best friends and teammates (Melina, Cierra & Makenna) climb. What I noticed in watching them climb was that the routesetting was extremely tough this year. They were taking no prisoners! Sidney came out and flashed Qualifier # 1 but barely half of her group made the route which shows how hard they were setting right out of the gate.
Sidney was one of only 3 girls, the others being Melina and Cierra, to make Qualifier # 2 and they all flashed it. If you watch the video of this climb on our youTube channel, Chasesidney13, you'll be amazed at how effortless she climbs the route. She makes it look much easier than it is.
Sidney on the final hold of Qualifier # 2 as her feet never come off the route. (Photo courtesy of me)
Sidney and Melina were the only girls to make Qualifier # 3 with Sid flashing it and MC making it on her 2nd attempt. Cierra almost flashed it but made a sequencing error that caused her to fall at the top and she couldn't make it on her 2nd attempt.
Showing off the guns on Qualifier # 3 as she flashes the route. (Photo courtesy of me)
Going into Finals, Makenna was in 7th with 1 Top and 36 points. Cierra was in 3rd with 2 Tops, 46 points and 2 flashes. Melina was in 2nd with 3 Tops, 49 points and 2 flashes. Sidney was 1st with 3 flashes. To illustrate how hard the setting was for Qualifiers, going into Finals for all 10 categories, there was the possibility of only 1 Superfinal. That is called separation!
Sidney flashed Final # 1 but it was a toughie as only 4 (Sid, MC, Cierra & Miriam) of the 12 finalists made the problem and they were all flashes. The sequencing was very specific with a couple of strength moves thrown in so I could see how some of the girls would have problems with it.
Textbook climbing by Sidney on Final # 1. (Photo courtesy of me)
More girls found success on Final # 2 as half of the Finalists made the route with Sidney, Melina and Cierra being the only ones to flash it. It was a short but sweet route that had one big move. The key was to be able to make a big crossover with your right hand near the top of the route.
Sidney at the big crossover move on Final # 2. (Photo courtesy of me)
Being as Sidney was right after Melina in the climbing order, she knew what Melina would have gotten on each climb before she was to climb. It makes her a little nervous but she deals with it well. On Final # 3, Cierra fell 3 times at the crux and did not make the route. Because of that bobble, Cierra finished in 4th place with Miriam squeaking by her for 3rd. That's the nature of the new scoring changes as you can climb better than someone else for most of the comp but if you make one mistake, it can cost you placings. Melina looked strong and easily flashed Final # 3 which put some pressure on Sidney as she would have to flash the route, too, in order to finish in 1st place. Sidney looked just as strong as MC and flashed the route. In fact, she finished with a flourish by skipping the 2nd to last hold and going for the finish in typical Sidney fashion. Only Sidney and Melina made Final # 3.
Sidney at the crux on Final # 3. (Photo courtesy of me)
In the end, Makenna qualified in the 8th and final spot for invites to Divisionals (Great job!). Cierra finished in 4th place. She was pretty bummed about her placing but it was a great learning experience for her nonetheless. Miriam, an up and coming first year C girl climbed very strong and finished in 3rd place. Melina was in 2nd place and Sidney finished in 1st place. Sidney was one of only 2 climbers (the other was Gavin Dixon) for the entire comp that flashed all 6 routes. Melina was right there by climbing all 6 routes with 1 fall. That's all that separated Sidney from her, 1 fall! Close. Divisionals is in two weeks and like I've said before, the FYC competition is going to be a doozy. I can't wait!!
Sidney was later in the running order for Qualifiers so I was able to watch her best friends and teammates (Melina, Cierra & Makenna) climb. What I noticed in watching them climb was that the routesetting was extremely tough this year. They were taking no prisoners! Sidney came out and flashed Qualifier # 1 but barely half of her group made the route which shows how hard they were setting right out of the gate.
Sidney was one of only 3 girls, the others being Melina and Cierra, to make Qualifier # 2 and they all flashed it. If you watch the video of this climb on our youTube channel, Chasesidney13, you'll be amazed at how effortless she climbs the route. She makes it look much easier than it is.
Sidney and Melina were the only girls to make Qualifier # 3 with Sid flashing it and MC making it on her 2nd attempt. Cierra almost flashed it but made a sequencing error that caused her to fall at the top and she couldn't make it on her 2nd attempt.
Going into Finals, Makenna was in 7th with 1 Top and 36 points. Cierra was in 3rd with 2 Tops, 46 points and 2 flashes. Melina was in 2nd with 3 Tops, 49 points and 2 flashes. Sidney was 1st with 3 flashes. To illustrate how hard the setting was for Qualifiers, going into Finals for all 10 categories, there was the possibility of only 1 Superfinal. That is called separation!
Sidney flashed Final # 1 but it was a toughie as only 4 (Sid, MC, Cierra & Miriam) of the 12 finalists made the problem and they were all flashes. The sequencing was very specific with a couple of strength moves thrown in so I could see how some of the girls would have problems with it.
More girls found success on Final # 2 as half of the Finalists made the route with Sidney, Melina and Cierra being the only ones to flash it. It was a short but sweet route that had one big move. The key was to be able to make a big crossover with your right hand near the top of the route.
Being as Sidney was right after Melina in the climbing order, she knew what Melina would have gotten on each climb before she was to climb. It makes her a little nervous but she deals with it well. On Final # 3, Cierra fell 3 times at the crux and did not make the route. Because of that bobble, Cierra finished in 4th place with Miriam squeaking by her for 3rd. That's the nature of the new scoring changes as you can climb better than someone else for most of the comp but if you make one mistake, it can cost you placings. Melina looked strong and easily flashed Final # 3 which put some pressure on Sidney as she would have to flash the route, too, in order to finish in 1st place. Sidney looked just as strong as MC and flashed the route. In fact, she finished with a flourish by skipping the 2nd to last hold and going for the finish in typical Sidney fashion. Only Sidney and Melina made Final # 3.
In the end, Makenna qualified in the 8th and final spot for invites to Divisionals (Great job!). Cierra finished in 4th place. She was pretty bummed about her placing but it was a great learning experience for her nonetheless. Miriam, an up and coming first year C girl climbed very strong and finished in 3rd place. Melina was in 2nd place and Sidney finished in 1st place. Sidney was one of only 2 climbers (the other was Gavin Dixon) for the entire comp that flashed all 6 routes. Melina was right there by climbing all 6 routes with 1 fall. That's all that separated Sidney from her, 1 fall! Close. Divisionals is in two weeks and like I've said before, the FYC competition is going to be a doozy. I can't wait!!
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